Rules of the Road in Taiwan

You've heard the stories of Indian cabbies who cover their dashboards with gods and gurus. After driving a scooter in Taiwan, I understand the impulse completely. I myself have resorted to using a superhero name—the Coral Wonder—in honor of my Goretex jacket of the same color that puffs up with wind as I drive. And I do feel somewhat superhuman, surmounting my biggest fear about this place (the traffic!) by getting on a scooter. I did it not because I'm so brave or so tough, you understand, but simply because I realized that I couldn't see the beauty of this island without a raincoat and a motorbike.

Here are a few tips for anyone hoping to follow my lead.

1. You can disconnect your signal lights to save energy. You will not use them here. Not ever. How to know what another driver might suddenly do? Good luck.

2. One inch of clearance is good driving—not a close call. Saving space is a virtue in such a crowded place.

3. Traffic lights, signs and other signals are good suggestions. Sure, posted rules such as these are generally good advice. “Eat your vegetables” is also good advice. It carries just about as much weight as the street signs.

4. Taxi drivers are king. That's true everywhere. But here, know that here, there's not a long legal precedent of enacting laws to limit the powers of a king.

5. A four lane road is actually a two lane road. The outside lane, which looks like it was created for moving traffic, is actually reserved for parked trucks and cars, buzzing scooters and clumps of pedestrians. If you are driving in the inner lane, expect any car, truck or swarm of scooters driving in that outer lane to swerve into your lane without warning. All sidewalks are taken up with large plants, tables, food stands and additional parked scooters or cars.

6. A two lane road is actually a three lane road. Double yellow lines at the center of the road mark the third lane, designated for weaving. This is necessary to avoid the pedestrians, scooters and large packs of stray dogs that fill the edges of the seemingly two lane road. This weaving lane exists as much to help hurried drivers as they pass motorscooters on winding mountain highways full of blind curves as it does to help them in crowded city streets during rush hour, when all lanes on the other side of the street are also completely full. Mind the three-legged dogs, as they need extra time when choosing to run out in front of your vehicle.

7. It gets easier. No, really, it does. But thank god I took out the motorcycle rider on my traveler's insurance policy.